Men Dedicated: How to Build Your Wardrobe – Part 1

Our appearance speaks louder than our words…..

Every day we pass by hundreds of people on the subway, in hallways, or on the streets, never saying a word.  Yet despite the lack of verbal communication, decisions are being made as to the trustworthiness and intentions of those around you.  Doubt this?  Try wearing a ski mask and trench coat while gesturing wildly with your arms.  In the 15 minutes you have before the police show-up, take note that despite not saying a single word your appearance has sent a message.

Yes, what I just said is unfair.  Right now you may be thinking “Judge me not by my clothing, but by the integrity in which I live my life” – and I couldn’t agree more.  But life isn’t fair, human beings have and will continue to judge others based on the information presented to them – and in most situations this is at first our physical appearance.  Dress like a thug and people treat you like one; dress like a professional and you’ll have doors opened for you.

A Man’s Wardrobe

There are many things that we can’t control; the weather, the economy, the fact that college football needs a playoff system.  How we present ourselves to strangers and new acquaintances, however, is not one of them. When you shake hands with a potential partner, they form an instant impression of you which is not easily dislodged.   First impressions are powerful because until we begin to speak, they are the only bits of information we have to make a snap decision as to whether we like or trust someone.  Countless communication studies have shown a man’s visual appearance is initially more powerful than what he says; ignore your wardrobe at your own risk.

There will be three articles in this series –

Part 1 – How to Build Your Wardrobe – Making the Commitment & Understanding Your Needs – Before a man begins anything that will require substantial time and resources, he has to be committed to the change.  In this article  we break men up into defined groups based on their lifestyles and we then address their specific needs.  The goal is to give you a quick checklist of items you should consider investing in depending on your career choice and personal requirements.

Part 2 – How to Build Your Wardrobe – Clothing Specifics – In this article we address specific menswear questions such as the order in which you should assemble your clothing, which suit colors and style should you choose if you only own one suit, which shoe styles you will get the most wear out of, and how you mix casual wear into the wardrobe.  We’ll also talk about where those on a very limited budget should invest the bulk of their money if they are starting from scratch.

Part 3 – How to Build Your Wardrobe – Accessories, Maintenance, & Storage – In this final article we’ll cover the often neglected points of a man’s wardrobe such as how to incorporate hats, watches, &  other accessories along with clothing storage & protection.

Part 1 – How to Build Your Wardrobe – Making the Commitment & Understanding Your Needs

1st – Learn and then Commit to Improve Your Personal Presentation

First, before spending a dime, you must commit to making the change.  Do this by going through your current clothing and setting aside everything that you 1) have not worn for two years 2) is noticeably stained and 3) fits so poorly not even a master tailor could adjust it to fit.  Package it all up and mark it for the Salvation Army or EBay.  Now over the next week verbally inform a few close friends and family member as to what you are doing – perhaps even promise a new profile picture on Facebook of you decked out in your new clothing.  The goal here is to create a network of supporters and audience; this puts pressure on you to fulfill your promise. Talking to your Spouse or fashion advisor is always a plus too!

2^nd – Understand the Basics of Style and Your Specific Needs

Next, build a foundation in understanding the rules of dressing well. I can’t stress the importance of a man taking  control of his own image.  Handing the responsibility over to your wife or girlfriend, however well meaning they may be, is a dangerous option; you may end up looking like a Ken doll.  

Types of Men and Their Clothing Needs

The Constant Professional’s Wardrobe

You wear a suit Monday through Friday, often find you are having dinner with clients, and even on the weekends dress well as you might run into colleagues and clients out on the town.  Your image is tied closely to the reputation you have carefully crafted over the years – a man who pays attention to the details and can be trusted to handle others people’s affairs with professionalism.

Items that should be in the Constant Professional’s wardrobe:

• 6+ Suits


• 3+ Pair Dress Shoes


• 2 Pair Casual Leather Shoes


• Belts that match above shoes


• 15+ Dress Shirts


• 15+ Ties


• 1 Pair jeans that fit – no holes


• 4 Pair Slacks, Dark & Light


• 4+ Button-up collared sport shirts


• 2+ Solid Polo Shirts


• 5+ Sweaters


• 10+ Undershirts V-neck


• 2+ Sports Jackets


• 1 Navy Blazer


• 10+ Pocket Squares


• 2 Simple Dress Watches


• 1 Overcoat


• 1 Pair Leather Gloves


• 1 Trenchcoat


• 1 Hat


• Presentable Athletic Clothing


• Collar Stays, Cuff Links

Items that would be helpful for the Constant Professional to have:

• Full black tie ensemble – A onetime investment enables you to have a perfect fitting and better quality tuxedo that has paid for itself after 5 wearings.

The Monk Strap Dress Shoe - A Traveler's Friend

The Business Owner’s Wardrobe

You occasionally wear a suit when meeting with clients or investors but in the confines of your office you are more casual while still maintaining a level of professionalism around your employees.  In the evenings with friends and family you are much more relaxed, and even if you head to the office Saturday morning, you’re going in jeans and a polo.

Items that should be in the Business Owner’s wardrobe:

• 1+ Suits


• 1+ Pair Dress Shoes


• 2 Pair Casual Leather Shoes


• Belts that match above shoes


• 10+ Dress Shirts


• 3+ Ties


• 2 Pairs of well-fitting Jeans


• 5 Pair Slacks, Dark & Light


• 5+ Button-up collared sport shirts


• 5 Solid Polo Shirts


• 5 Sweaters


• 10+ Undershirts V-neck


• 2+ Sports Jackets


• 1 Simple Dress Watch

Items that would be helpful to have:

• 1 Navy Blazer


• 5+ Pocket Squares


• 1 Overcoat


• 1 Pair Leather Gloves


• 1 Trenchcoat


• 1 Hat


• Collar Stays, Cuff Links

The Uniform Man

You have a specific uniform you wear that is required by the nature of your work.  The only time you need personal clothing is when you have time off in the evenings and your weekends.  You wear a suit rarely, but when you do you like to look sharp as being a man of detail you pay attention to the small things.

Items that should be in the Uniform Man’s wardrobe:

• 1 Suit


• 1 Pair Dress Shoes


• 1+ Pair Casual Leather Shoes


• Belts that match above shoes


• 4+ Dress Shirts


• 3+ Ties


• 2 Pairs of well-fitting Jeans


• 2 Pair Slacks, Dark & Light


• 2+ Button-up collared sport shirts


• 3 Solid Polo Shirts


• 3 Sweaters


• 5+ Undershirts


• 1 Sports Jacket


• 1 Simple Dress Watch

Items that would be helpful to have

• 1 Navy Blazer


• 3+ pocket squares


• 1 Overcoat


• 1 Pair Leather Gloves


• 1 Hat


• Collar Stays, Cuff Links

The Casual Creative’s Wardrobe

You work in an environment in which creativity is valued and conformity is dreaded.  Although you have some colleagues that dress in the clothing they slept in, you realize that dressing up a notch does not mean you are losing yourself as an individual.  Rather it gives you a chance to better express it without compromising your chance for opportunity.

Items that should be in the Casual Creative’s Wardrobe:

• 1 Suit & 2 Ties (Just in case!)


• 1 Pair Dress Shoes


• 2 Pair Casual Leather Shoes (Suede or Saddle Shoes)


• Belts that match above shoes


• 10+ Dress Shirts (tailored, contrast stitching, unique fabrics)


• 4 Pairs of well-fitting Jeans


• 2 Pair Slacks, Dark & Light


• 6+ Button-up collared sport shirts


• 2 Solid Polo Shirts


• 6 Sweaters


• 10+ Undershirts


• 1+ Sports Jacket – unique style or fabric


• 1 Simple Watch


• 5+ Pocket Squares


• 1 Overcoat (Aim for a Unique Fabric)

Items that would be helpful to have

• 2 Vests – possibly wear in lieu of a jacket


• 1 pair Leather Gloves


• 1 Hat


• Collar Stays, Cuff Links

3^rd – Allot the time and resources

Your Wardrobe Budget – How much time and money do I need?

Ideally a man should build his wardrobe a few pieces at a time over a decade.  In tune with his clothing needs, he should be on the lookout for missing pieces to be had at a value price. Slowly integrating these finds into his closet, he will be ready at a moment’s notice for whatever event is thrown his way.  If you have time on your hands, develop a basic understanding of style and shop in thrift shops and bargain bins, and you can piece together a respectable wardrobe for around $300 to $500.

When time is a premium, the cost of a wardrobe can rise dramatically.  If you do not have years to piece your wardrobe together, you may end up spending ten times the numbers above as you’ll be paying full retail for most items.   If your wardrobe is going to be suit heavy, expect to spend well over 5K.  The one upside to purchasing quite a few items at once is that you may be able to negotiate a discount for a large purchase – I do this quite often with my clients as it is a win-win scenario for both of us.

Finally, remember that purchasing quality is an investment; purchasing quantity on the other hand is an expense.  It’s better to own a few well made garments that you wear often than a full wardrobe of cheap & poorly-fitted clothing that……well, looks cheap and poorly-fitted.

Men Dedicated: 6 Steps to Start Dressing Like the Man You Know Yourself to Be

First off,  the mindset necessary to carry out changing your personal presentation!  Having consulted with quite a few men on improving their appearance, I’ve discovered that most are ready for change, but many are at a loss as to how to go about it.  They know they want to transform their outward appearance, they know they want to enhance their personal style, but they are unsure about how the process will work and if the transition will be successful.

Some might say it’s because men are resistant to change; this is absolute nonsense.  As men love to travel and try new foods, purchase new cars and homes, move relationships from dating to marriage, and take on the role of father to our children.  They embrace change, and in many cases seek it.  No, the real problem is not the change but instead the uneasiness felt during the transition.  And the longer this awkward transition period takes, the harder it is to institute a permanent change.

The key to successfully revamping your personal appearance then is to make the transitional period as painless as possible.  So how do you go about changing the way you present yourself to the world?  Here are six powerful steps to ensure your wardrobe transformation is a success.

1.  Make a commitment to change your personal style

Once you are sure you want to step up your personal style, make a commitment to this change.  Commitments are made in various ways, but one of the most powerful ones I have seen is when a man verbally tells those close to him that he is going forward with the change.  And don’t limit this to your wife or significant other – the commitment becomes more likely to be fulfilled when you let your friends know as well, and making a written commitment with a set date can more than triple the likelihood you’ll follow through.  Of course you risk not making your goal – but that’s the whole motivator here, the fact that we strive to be consistent in our word.   

           

2.  Get specific about how you’ll rebuild your wardrobe

When refining your personal presentation, you need to have a plan and know exactly how you are going to make to make the change happen.  Seek to eliminate cluelessness by laying out the step-by-step details that make up your plan of action.  Include the exact type of garments, which order you’ll acquire them in, and how much you are willing to spend.  With the commitment to change in place it becomes a matter of locating a trusted merchant and taking action.

 When getting specific, understand your needs and do not underestimate the importance of educating yourself on menswear. You can reach out to clothiers offering free style consultations, men’s image consultants that specialize in helping you look your best, or menswear specific blogs written by regular guys such as Made to Measure NY & Scientific Style; both of these are great for supplementing your education and inspiration.

         

3.  Eliminate Barriers to Change

Oftentimes we sabotage our own efforts to institute change.  When looking to dress better, remove small obstacles that might trip you up.  Look to shape a path that enhances the journey and makes the process simple.  Here are just a few examples of shaping the path to dressing sharp.

• Lay out your clothing the night before; by having everything neatly arranged and coordinated there is no thinking or looking for misplaced items in the morning.  Even if you are running late, it’ll be a snap to dress sharp in minutes.
• Set a time on Sunday evenings to shine your shoes; with three pairs in your rotation you should be able to make it through the week with only touch-up brushes.
• Iron all of your shirts at once; it takes you as much time to set up the iron and board as it does to iron one shirt – by knocking out six shirts or more at once you save yourself 15 minutes every week over ironing each shirt separately.
• Invest in simple and functional gentleman’s accessories such as galoshes and an umbrella. Then place them where you can find them; when you need them they will pay for themselves after a few uses, especially when protecting your footwear from damage on a rainy day.

4.  Build on your strengths and incorporate something unique to you

Build your personal style on your strengths and incorporate aspects of style which will make the style of the clothing truly yours.  Are you a huge Lakers fan?  Look to have a purple and gold lining sewn into the inside of your sport jacket.  Have you followed the New York Yankees since you were a kid?  Then work like the Yanks by opting for pin-stripe suits.  A bit silly?  Yes, but having fun and focusing on making your clothing unique to your personality will make you more likely to wear it and more comfortable in it when you do.

Having fun with a shirt collar style!

5.  Change your mindset

Logically we know that dressing professionally leads to stronger and more positive first impressions; emotionally however, we resist trading in our khakis and polo shirts for dress trousers and sport jackets because we are worried how our colleagues will react to our dressier appearance.  And more often than not, emotion will win the battle.  The key then is to use emotion to change your mindset; although the decision may be based in logic, by tying it to an emotional anchor we create a much more powerful and consistent pull.  Example – Instead of dressing sharp to increase your chances for a promotion, dress well because you want your significant other and son to see you the way you see yourself, as a leader with great potential.  The stimulus of dressing as a positive example for your family is more powerful than that of a potential pay raise.

6.  Just Get Started

The hardest part for many of us is just getting started.  We wait, analyze, and then wait some more.  But understand that not making a decision is in itself a choice – your decision not to purchase that custom suit six weeks before the interview means you risk settling for an ill-fitted off-the-rack garment 4 days before the big day.  Avoid analysis paralysis by setting a timeline of when a decision has to be made; make an educated decision with the information you have available and then make your decision.  Missed opportunities are just that – missed.

One tip for those looking to change their entire presentation, but who are hesitant to take the plunge, is to have a single outfit perfectly tailored and ready.  Then hold off on the rest of the wardrobe.  After they realize they are wearing the same outfit again and again because they look great in it and it feels good, they are ready to expand their closet by building off this core ensemble.   The hard work is in getting the started – once you know what sizes fit you or a tailor has your body measurements, you can simply order everything you need and know for certain you’ll have the fit down.

Conclusion

Transforming your personal appearance isn’t especially difficult; what makes it hard is our unwillingness to address the transition clinically.  Once you commit to dressing better, a well laid out plan of action that’s divided into small executable steps and supported by the proper mindset is more likely than not going to succeed. Happy Shopping!